Fret boards

I got my fret boards done this morning, almost. I still might scoop them.

Once I put them on it's just a bunch of final shaping of the necks and scrolls and fret installation. Sounds easy but it could take me quite a while to complete.

Got some new ideas for the ToDo list so here it is again with some additions.

1. Only build one at a time because I'm always thinking of better ways to do things.
2. Build a new mold that matches the drawings in the new Siminoff book.
3. Get lots of extra side wood for bending mistakes.
4. Make the top and back smaller than the rib set so I don't have to route wood that shouldn't be there in the first place.
5. Same for the peg head overlay. Bind and inlay before attaching. I knew this before I started 2 and 3 but didn't do it for some reason. I actually tried it but I ruined my work by trying to hurry with the belt sander. Won't do that again.
6. Seriously considering using the Siminoff neck joint just to speed things up a little. I can cut a mean dovetail as long as I have plenty of time and shims. Either way, leave the neck block with plenty of material to sit on the band saw. Saw it away after the joint fits perfectly. Practice one with scrap.
7. Also considering getting my top and back cut on a CNC. Not sure if I'll go there. If not, use the Lancelot as much as possible and get the edges ¼" thick all the way around.
8. Make a form to bend the scroll binding on.
9. Make the scroll cuts before gluing the top and back on.
10. Make sure points are cut square and even before gluing blocks in.
11. Leave extra stock on point blocks for shaping to binding.
12. Use CA around the button and then switch to Duco and rubber bands.
13. Make sure the buttons are good and round.
14. Do not use nails to clamp the binding on the fret board because they can leave very deep imprints.
15. Think ahead about the Florida scoop and don't cut those slots.
16. Make sure peg-head and fret-board templates match at the nut if binding the peg-head ahead of time.

--
Dick Hutchings